Today I allowed myself the rare pleasure of
wandering around a beautiful city in the steps of a well loved fictional
character – Commissario Guido Brunetti.
This affable though efficient detective is a figment of the imagination
of an Italian author – Donna Leon. She
writes so convincingly of him and his family that after just a couple of books
you feel as though you know him well enough to share him with someone of a like
mind – or invite him and Paolo over for dinner!
So it was that two friends and I
decided that on our next stop in Venice we would take ourselves to the Questura
where Guido frequently looks out of the window of his office and we would see
his view.
We started in St Marks Square and after a
brief fight against the tide of tourists, we left the square behind and headed
for CHIESA DELLA PIETA. The tall white
columns of the Church of the Pieta is no longer used for religious worship, but
rather for worship of another kind -
mostly fabulous concerts of Antonio Vivaldi’s enchanting melodies. This church is often referred to by the
locals as Vivaldi’s church in honour of the fame he brought to the city through
the music he wrote for the orphaned girls whose musical education he oversaw.
Over the bridge and we turned left down the
small Calle del Dose and truly started to feel like we were walking in
Brunetti’s footsteps. The small street,
Calle, reminds one of an English “twittern” as it is just that, a tiny gap
between the houses which allows one to pass deeper into the labyrinth that is
Venice.
As we had started out early there weren’t many people down this end of
Venice yet and the streets were quiet and we had plenty of opportunity for
taking nice photographs.
The after a
short walk the Calle opened into the CAMPO BANDIERA e MORO. This small square is a hidden gem. Dominated by the restored 15th century
building of deep brown brick with fabulous window boxes filled with
flowers.
The opposite side is the Church
of Giovanni in Bragora with a beautiful scalloped white facade and pale
bricks. It was not open when we were
there but I would have loved to have gone in and had a look about. From
the plaque on the wall it is proclaimed as another haunt of Vivaldi’s.
Exiting the palazzo to the right of the
hotel and we found ourselves in the suburban street of SALIZZADA SANT
ANTONIO. It actually felt quite odd to
be walking down a street in Venice with supermarkets and hardware stores and
school supplies.
In fact it was so normal looking that we decided to stop for coffee at one of the typical side walk cafes – and we were served by its Indian owner. The world it truly turning into and international village! Coffee was great and so was the cake!
Moving on towards the Ponto Greci we grew more enamoured with the area at every turn.
We ambled along the Sant Antonio
street, through the Calle della Madonna
and then out into the open and the Ponto
Greci – Bridge of Greci where there was a bar that Brunnetti like to frequent
called "Ai Greci" but now goes but the unusual title of Greci Moka Efti Crazy Bar.
Here we made a slight mistake and took a left turn past the bar and down a very interesting street with a fabulous mask shop. Feeling like we were going the wrong way I stopped and asked directions to San Lorenzo and the Italian man I asked said “back to the Ponto Greci and turn left to find the Questuro”! I think lots more Brunetti fans have than we had imagined have trodden these worn paving stones!!
So back to the bridge we went and took the correct turn.
A short walk down the
FONDEMENTA DI SAN LORENZO we passed a small newspaper stand where I gave into
the urge to buy an “Il Gazzettino” which is the daily rag that Brunnetti likes
to read.
Well pleased with my purchase we walked on a little further along the canal side and there was the QUESTURA where Bruntetti has an office and spends a fair amount of time gazing at the view from his office window. This encompasses the gardens of an old peoples and an early Gothic Palazzo Zorzi-Liassidi (now an hotel) and yet another church.
(Right = a very happy Brunetti fan outside the Questura. Whilst we were there making loads of noise and taking pictures, the voice box behind me came on and someone whilsteled!! We got sucha fright that we moved on post haste. )
From here we wandered the twists and turns
of the small Calles that lead into fabulous squares, past numerous churches,
along enchanting canals and we were completely captivated by Venice. Forget the tourist Square, the Gondola rides
and the glass shops. This is the Venice
to visit!!
Lets get in a bit closer..... hang on a minute - what is that behind my head????
Isn't he just beautiful!! We stayed and eyed each other for a long while and 'communed' then I left and he went up the tree into the greenery
Here we made a slight mistake and took a left turn past the bar and down a very interesting street with a fabulous mask shop. Feeling like we were going the wrong way I stopped and asked directions to San Lorenzo and the Italian man I asked said “back to the Ponto Greci and turn left to find the Questuro”! I think lots more Brunetti fans have than we had imagined have trodden these worn paving stones!! 
So back to the bridge we went and took the correct turn. 
A short walk down the
FONDEMENTA DI SAN LORENZO we passed a small newspaper stand where I gave into
the urge to buy an “Il Gazzettino” which is the daily rag that Brunnetti likes
to read.
Well pleased with my purchase we walked on a little further along the canal side and there was the QUESTURA where Bruntetti has an office and spends a fair amount of time gazing at the view from his office window. This encompasses the gardens of an old peoples and an early Gothic Palazzo Zorzi-Liassidi (now an hotel) and yet another church. 
Below is the first little mountain village that you pass. Not necessarily a medi-evil village, but it gives you the idea that the small villages are built on steep sloes, without roads that access each individual home. Rather there is a road at the top of the hill and you have to walk to each house - carry all that you require for daily living or new furniture etc. Makes you think about what you purchase at the store when you have to lug it so far and so steep!!
The amphiteatre is very well divided with sections for wealthy patrons who supported the amphitheatre financially, then for individuals who bought their seats, a section for families with children - at the back so the kids didn't annoy anyone - and even a section for people who came from out of town for the games. Very cool. You can see letter carved n the marble indicating how all this is divided. 
Walking around the back of the amphitheatre you see the remnants of the town / city with a nice sqaure complete with fountain and lion and a temple and off to the left a magnificent Bath houser reputed to have been built by Marcus Aurelies for his wife. According to our guide it boasts the first real example of private cubicles for massage that are seperate from the main hot and cold baths. Very lovely to walk about and you can even see some of the original painting on the marble walls - awesome!! Also loads of large lisards that live in the brick work and pop out now and again to try and scare you!! 
